Through good staff, and sometimes not so much, our restaurant critics talk about their experience, introduce the team in the dining room and kitchen, explaining what motivated the choice of restaurant. This week: smiling good weather that will help you wait a little longer.
Published at 11:00
Why talk about it?
In December 2020, Beau Temps opened for sandwiches and wine. These were great sandwiches. But chef William Cody could not see how long he worked between the two loaves. Sommelier William Solnier no longer wanted to fill his cellar to the brim for an empty room.
Then the opening and closing followed one another. The restaurant was a success thanks to the summer concepts of crabs and lobsters. But when the real experience of Beau Temps finally saw the light of day, he was unfortunately left off the radar. Let’s fix this situation and let this wonderful table shine a little more and spread your good mood.
Who are they ?
“Two wills” form a strong tandem. They worked together at the Les 400 coups restaurant for several years. Then the chef went to open Maïs, a holiday taxi that had occupied the Beau Temps for seven years. The sommelier opened Hoogan and Beaufort with Marc-Andre Jette.
It was in the summer of 2018 that ex-colleagues met… in the alley! William Solnier took over the menu and service at Le Parasol, a delicious little summer table at the back of Le Maïs. Together with his partner Peter Popovich (pizzeria “Soroka”) Villas decided to bring inside Parasol and local cuisine. From the summer of 2020, the alley is now reserved for the Crab Hut and the Lobster Hut for the high season of these Gaspe and Madelino treasures (until the end of June). In July and August, Beau Temps will spread everywhere, the grill will be switched on again at the back, and small plates full of freshness and creativity will be free to flow from front to back.
It’s a very quiet Wednesday evening. The two of us show up without warning. Our counter. And even if there are only three other tables in the slender dining room, it doesn’t look like a dead restaurant. It will take some time before you realize that this may be a matter of sound. It’s amazing what a difference music can make in the right context. Afrobit, pop, instrumental and joyful hip-hop give us a good mood. When paying the bill, “Will of the Room” informs us that “Will of the Kitchen” prepares reading lists. He doesn’t just have a knack for the kitchen, this chef!
But the kitchen remains its great strength, as evidenced by all the dishes we ate that evening. The first gardeners are still waiting. And the ability of a small team (chefs, as everywhere, in demand!) Still create a miracle in April with celandine, potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes, impresses us most during this spontaneous visit.
Dauphin potatoes, fried puree and custard are ideal for appeasing your crazy appetite without killing it completely. Despite the “naughty” look, they float on the tongue! With their Old Bay seasoning (celery salt, pepper, chili, etc.), the meatballs are as good as they are, but divine when soaked in green garlic mayonnaise. Very crunchy endives are dipped in smoked yogurt, decorated with pecans and slices of Cara Cara orange. The freshness of this record is incredible.
The main thing is not to be afraid of beef tongue. It is served in very thin slices, like a sausage that covers a good celeriac salad with buttermilk. And this is a seasonal product ZE, cowboy! For the price it is showing this spring, we would not blame the chef for mixing it with a large portion of spaghetti. This dish, seasoned with jalapeno peppers and textured with breadcrumbs, will be a welcome treat of this cool evening.
Since we can’t choose between two desserts, jump! we take everything. Chocolate tartlet with sunflower praline and Jerusalem artichoke candies is ingenious. The combination of local (or neighboring!) Ingredients and delicacies from other countries is also very successful in a plate of smoked Ontario peaches, preserved last summer, torn Genoese bread (almond flour cake), English cream and Marcona almonds.
In our glass
In 400 Blows and in Hoogan and Beaufort William Solnier developed in a classical setting. He kept his manners. His service is impeccable. We hardly notice it, except for good reasons: wit, empty plates that disappear without realizing it, the suggestion of wine that hits the target. To match the very relaxed atmosphere at Beau Temps, he prefers wines for pleasure. His pleasure. “If I want to drink a bottle myself, it’s on the menu!” – admits the sommelier. Because we fully trust his tastes and this intuitive approach, we listen to (and appreciate) his recommendations: refreshing bubble Orsi, chenin / sauvignon Clément Baraut “Herbes folles” that make your mouth water, and juicy and floral black throat from La grange aux beautiful.
Good to know
There are ways to eat without meat, and some vegan adaptations are possible. The toilets are located on the ground floor, but are small and not particularly suitable for people with disabilities.
Prices correspond to the format and base value of the ingredients. Smaller meals cost between $ 10 and $ 17. The heaviest ones with animal protein (less) range around $ 36. The craving for sugar is satisfied for 10-12 dollars.
Beau Temps is open Wednesday to Saturday from 17:00 until 23:00.
Beau Temps, 5439 Saint-Laurent Boulevard, Montreal