AThe went especially for him. We heard so much about him that we could not miss the “legendary” royal crab from Langosteria. This temple of Italian cuisine, born in 2007 in Milan under the direction of Enrico Buonocore, split in two last September in the center of the Cheval Blanc Paris, at 1isdistrict. Located on the seventh floor of a former Samaritan woman, a room with a very British phlegm, enlivened by a ballet of waiters in white jackets, offers panoramic views of the entire City of Light – the Eiffel Tower, the House of the Disabled, the Montparnasse Tower.
All you have to do is sit in front of the Seine to discover a score by the Marines played by Michele Biazoni. Ode to iodine, dedicated to fish, shellfish, crustaceans and seafood. Raw, hot, warm, served with pasta, served on a platterx…, in the thick menu, which contains about forty suggestions, there is something for everyone. Something that makes you dizzy taste buds. There is no time to procrastinate, here it is our royal crabspecial issueand 2007 – in honor of the year of its creation in Langosteria Milan – who comes to the table.
Amazing double crab texture
ein his hollow plate, crustaceans – price 80 euros per dish – primed in the form of a mountain generosity mix his body and his claws. Below is a farandol of vegetables: quarters Like tomatoesNoand always with your skincelery peeled and sliced with a bird’s beak as wellcrispy rolls withRed onion. And especially the mysterious sauce. The meter invites us to mix it all up products to way of salad so “alchemy acts “. We just ask to check it promises to solve the tasting.
In the mouthshows a crab amazing double texture. Chewing is firm at first, and then hastily, melts, which makes you want to return to it. This dependence is enhanced by the sauce astringent insemination of crustaceans. An elixir that combines seven ingredients between extra virgin olive oil, red fruit, mustard, salt, aromatic vinegar, sun-dried tomatoes before being pastwith at the mill and the seventh thief was kept secret. The trilogy of crispy vegetables completes the work, bringing its freshness to the rest of the composition. We are in a handmade style that resembles aerobatics.
Invitation to travel through Booth
Like other signatures of Michele Biazoni, which are an invitation to a mischievous journey through the Skull. Crispy saffron-flavored rice cubes, for example, draped with raw gambero rosso, red shrimp (26 euros). Bluefin tuna carpaccio (32 euros) is pampered with Mediterranean sauce (tomatoes, capers, anchovies, etc.). calamaretti all’assassina (34 euros), small grilled squid, electrified with spicy tomato sauce stewed for many hours. Black perch anyolotti (40 euros) is topped with grated pecorino, basil shoots and bouillabaisse sauce.
For the sweet part, Maxim Frederick takes on the role. The confectioner, who shines six floors below Plénitude – 3 stars under Arno Donkele – is once again visiting the main desserts transalpine. In the foreground, stunning Tiramisu (18 euros) where coffee gel is combined with cocoa, mascarpone, sluggish on Annecy cookies. Model type, where, from smooth to crispy, because of the softness, each texture is a great dialogue with others. Friendly tip: check out the huge Italian wine list to choose from precious a liquid that will accompany a solid body.
Langosteria at Cheval Blanc Paris, 8, quai du Louvre (1is). Open with Wednesday until noon and Sunday evening. Menu: 160 € (dinner). Card with 50 135 euros each, +385 1 79 35 50 33, www.chevalblanc.com